Mercoledì 20 Ottobre

Today it stopped raining, and I learnt to use the word “brutto”.

El tempo era brutto.
The weather was ugly.

El mare e brutto.
The sea is ugly.

I corner a man fiddling with his boat in the port at Malfa, on the other side of the island. I ask if the people around here fish. He explains that they only go fishing if the weather is not ‘brutto’. He tells me where they sell their fish if they do go out – in the piazza in Santa Marina.

On my way to Pollara, I am walking with two women and a dog. He is ‘bravo’ not ‘brutto’. I tell one of them that I’m going to go swimming there, and she laughs and tells me the sea is ‘brutto’. I think she just means ‘it’s cold, you don’t want to swim there’. It turned out that the sea was ugly and I didn’t want to swim there.